Cocktail bitters are an odd footnote to the history of spirits which have been sustained literally over the millennia. The infusion of botanical matter into alcohol to produce bittersweet “medicines” can be traced back to the ancient Egyptians. These “stomachics” or tonics blossomed in the middle ages with the advent of pharmacognosy, the study of medicinal plants (some of which link directly to present day modern western medicines). Bitter alcohol infusions (“bitters”) found their way into cocktails first in nineteenth century Britain, when adding them to “Canary wine”, a type of fortified white wine (like port) became popular. The practice transferred to the new American colonies, where “miracle” elixirs were also springing up at every local pharmacy, and before long, the mix of a base spirit with a little water, sugar, and some bitters became known as a cocktail.

Arguably the world’s most popular bitters, Angostura, was invented in 1864 by Dr. Johann Siegert as a medicine for Simon Bolivar’s army in the Venezuelan town of that name.  The elixir gained popularity and its production moved to Trinidad in 1875, where it remains today. The oversized label on the bottle, which inevitably ends up getting smashed and wrinkled, has been a charming feature throughout its history. Many cocktail bitters contain a potent dose of alcohol – Angostura, for example, contains 44.7% alcohol by volume – that’s practically 90 “proof”. Despite this, in the US and many other countries, bitters like Angostura can be purchased in a regular grocery store with no need for a liquor sales license. This “loophole” is because bitters like Angostura are considered “non-potable” and are classified as alcoholic non-beverage products (like vanilla extract for baking – another loophole!). Bitters taste awful, so no one in their right mind would drink them straight, and when using them, a dash or two is all that is needed (one “dash” is about one eighth of a teaspoon, which is about ten drops).

Of course, we all know that person who likes to break the rules. If not, maybe take a look in the mirror. Naturally, there are cocktails with loads of Angostura bitters in them. There is even a bar in Wisconsin where patrons drink shots of the stuff. In 1939 spirits writer and bon vivant Charles H. Baker wrote about the Angostura Fizz in his Gentleman’s Companion, volume II, which featured Angostura as the main ingredient, and in 2009 modern cocktail pioneers Maks Pezuniak and Kirk Estopinal resurrected it as the Angostura Sour in their cult compendium Rogue Cocktails. The better-known and perhaps more well-balanced Trinidad Sour adds a little whiskey to the mix, but the Ango Sour remains pure and proves, perhaps, that rules are meant to be broken. Cheers!

Angostura Sour by Maks Pezuniak and Kirk Estopinal

1 ½ oz Angostura Bitters

¾ oz lime

1 oz simple syrup

Egg white

Shake vigorously without and then with ice, strain into a coup. Peychaud’s droplet “loophole” garnish.

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