While a cold beer would be a perfect accompaniment in the hot springs of Japan, I am toasting artist Yoh Kakuda’s homage to his home country with another classic Japanese drink, the whiskey highball. Although the cocktail is truly an American invention, Japanese culture adopted the practice over a century ago and turned it into a high art form of their own. One of the best examples is the Japanese highball, and how the most simple of drinks can become quite complex. A whiskey and soda seems hard to mess up, or improve upon, but what if the type of whiskey makes a difference? What if the ice matters, and the density of gas bubbles in the carbonation? What about the glass, the ratio of whiskey to water, the temperature and the garnish? Let’s not neglect the process, including the order of building these ingredients, the proper way to pour, and the all important stir, which can escalate to a theatrical performance.

Watching famed bartenders in Japan make a whiskey highball reveals this elevated, ritualistic process performed with zen-like focus. The highball truly took off in popularity in Japan after World War II thanks to the Suntory brand, which produced a Scotch style whiskey that was exceptional in a highball. They developed special machines to serve these at just the right proportions with ease, which also helped popularize the drink, although nothing can beat one made by a passionate bartender. In recent years, Suntory has developed the ultimate highball whiskey, Toki, a special blend from their Yamazaki, Hakushu, and Chita distilleries which features citrus and spice characteristic. This perfect blend took time to create, which is what Toki means. Despite the hype and pageantry associated with a “craft” whiskey highball, the real reason they are so popular in Japan is probably because, in reality, they are very easy to make, are the perfect light and refreshing drink for the hot months, and go well with all sorts of cuisine. There’s no need to monkey around with anything else – Kampai!

Toki Highball

2 oz Suntory Toki

6 oz carbonated water

Place approximately 3-4 clear cubes of ice into a highball glass to the top. Add the whiskey and stir with a long handled bar spoon thirteen and a half times. Add more ice again if needed. Top with cold soda water, taking care to avoid breaking the bubbles by pouring down the side of the glass. Stir another three and a half times. Garnish with a lemon twist.

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