Boxes and Booze

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Spider Chrysanthemum

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Spider Chrysanthemum cocktail

The cocktail pairing with which to toast this magnificent box was rather easy to come up with, because there is a classic cocktail called the “Chrysanthemum”. Often credited to Harry Craddock, one of the forefathers of the pre-Prohibition era, from his 1930 Savoy Cocktail book, the drink can be found even earlier, in Hugo Ensslin’s Recipes for Mixed Drinks, 1916. Thus the true provenance of the drink is obscure, but it was clearly popular in the early twentieth century. These days, “low ABV” (alcohol by volume) drinks, with lower proof due to the use of liqueurs and aromatized wines, are trendy, but they are nothing new. The Chrysanthemum is such a classic, which features the honey herbal liqueur Benedictine with anise flavored absinthe, balanced together by a backbone of dry vermouth.

Benedictine is an herbal French liqueur dating back to 1510 which features angelica root, hyssop and lemon balm among the 27 different ingredients. It has subtle flavors of baking spice and vanilla too, and is quite sweet. The bitterness of absinthe is a counter to this in the cocktail, and vermouth is always a good way to bring harmony to such a drink. The combination works best using the Savoy recipe, with less Benedictine and more vermouth. I made a modern variation on this drink by Boston mixologist Fred Yarm a while back called “Undercover Angel” (which I paired with Wil Strijbos’ Angel Box), and continued along that theme for this pairing as well. Starting with the original recipe, the Spider variation swaps dry Oloroso sherry for the main vermouth, and adjusts the Benedictine with some sweet grapefruit vermouth. It’s sensational, if I do say so (I do, I do). Chrysanthemums symbolize optimism and joy. It has been said that placing a single petal at the bottom of a glass of wine will impart a long and healthy life. Here’s to that – cheers!

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I can't remain mum about this pair

Chrysanthemum (original Savoy recipe c. 1930)

2 oz. dry vermouth

1 oz. Bénédictine

3 dashes absinthe

Spider Chrysanthemum (adapted from Fred Yarm)

1 ½ oz Oloroso sherry

¾ oz grapefruit vermouth

¾ oz Benedictine

3 dashes absinthe

Stir together with ice and strain into a favorite glass. Garnish with a lemon spider mum.